Swatch 3

Tapestry techniques

In tapestry, the weft doesn't travel all the way across the loom. Each colour is woven back and forth only where it's needed, building shapes like a painter builds areas of colour. A handful of techniques let you join, blend and texture those shapes.

A long horizontal low-warp tapestry loom in a workshop, with white warp threads stretched over a paper design laid underneath
A low-warp tapestry loom: the weaver follows a full-size design placed beneath the warp. Photo: David Monniau, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Weft-faced weaving

Tapestry is weft-faced: the weft is beaten down so densely that it completely hides the warp. That's why warps are spaced a little wider and the weft is laid generously. The image you see is made entirely of weft.

Joining colours

Slit Interlock Hatching Rya knots colours turn back wefts loop together staggered rows blend knotted pile
Ways of meeting and mixing two colours, plus knotted pile.
TechniqueHowUse
SlitTwo colours turn back around neighbouring warpsCrisp vertical edges; long slits can be sewn closed
InterlockThe wefts loop around each other between warpsCloses the gap, with a slightly softer line
DovetailBoth colours turn around the same warpA serrated, toothed join
HatchingRows of two colours alternate in staggered lengthsShading and blending
Pick and pickTwo colours alternate every rowFine vertical stripes

Diagonals are easiest. Shapes with gentle slopes build smoothly. Steep diagonals and vertical edges need slits or joins, and curves need care to avoid steps.

Texture: soumak and rya

Soumak wraps the weft around the warps, forward over two and back under one, making a raised line that looks like a braid. It's often used for outlines and borders.

Rya knots make a shaggy pile. Short lengths of yarn are knotted around pairs of warps with the ends hanging down the front, and each row of knots is locked in with a few rows of plain weave. They're popular for fringes and textured wall hangings.

Following a design

Traditional tapestry weavers work from a full-size drawing called a cartoon. On a low-warp loom, it sits under the warp; on a high-warp (upright) loom, its main lines are inked onto the warp itself. Because the weaver usually works from the back of the tapestry, designs are often reversed. For a frame loom, simply draw your design on paper, place it behind the warp, and mark key lines on the warps with a fine marker.

Great tapestry traditions

Tapestry has been woven in many cultures, from ancient Egypt and the Andes to medieval Europe and kilim weaving across Anatolia, Central Asia and North Africa. In France, the workshops of the Gobelins in Paris and of Aubusson became famous for tapestries woven on high-warp and low-warp looms respectively. Contemporary weavers use the same techniques for abstract and graphic designs.

Common mistakes

MistakeFix
Building one shape too high firstBuild areas up together so the warps stay evenly spaced
Warp showing between rowsLay more weft and beat more firmly
Long slits gapingInterlock, dovetail or sew the slit closed afterwards
Rya rows slidingWeave at least two or three plain rows between each row of knots

Designing your first tapestry

Turn it round. Many weavers turn their design sideways, so that tall shapes become wide ones that are easier to weave without long slits.

Questions weavers ask

What yarn is best for tapestry?

Smooth wool weft on a strong cotton or linen warp is traditional. Wool packs down well and has a natural spring.

Can I use leftover knitting yarn?

Yes, especially for experimenting. Very stretchy or slippery yarns are harder to control, so mix them with smoother ones.

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